Over all of the International District favorites and upscale fusion contenders, a faded Lake City Way hole-in-the-wall emerged from years of obscurity to capture the top spot in Chinese food this year. The pagoda-shaped Ying's Drive-In in Maple Leaf is hardly more than a few takeout windows and benches, but you say it's the source for perfect Kung Pao and the most commanding General Tso. At your request, they'll make it with less oil, no salt or with or without MSG.